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Many of Lisbon’s most startling sights lie on its approaches, at the mouth of the River Tagus. The Tower of Belém looks like a Disney fantasy, typical of the exquisite Manueline architecture which also graces the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Nearby, the sharp lines of the giant Monument to the Discoveries pay tribute to Portugal’s great seafaring heroes. In the heart of town, lifts help you up and down a rollercoaster of narrow streets and hills around the Bairro Alto and the Alfama quarter – all pastel colours and red-tiled roof tops baking under the sun. By night, dine out on clams and Alentejo cheese and wine and let your ears sample the haunting strains of the fado.

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